Amatriciana is a Roman institution and Romans are territorial about it. No onion. No garlic. No carrots or celery. Guanciale — cured pork cheek — and San Marzanos and Pecorino. That's it. The guanciale renders low and slow until it's glassy and the fat is liquid gold; that fat becomes the base of the sauce.
Bucatini because that thick, hollow tube was designed to hold this sauce.
Suggested accompaniments from Vol. II: Roman-style braised artichokes with garlic and mint, and crusty sourdough to mop the bowl. Soundtrack: That's Amore by Dean Martin.
Chapter: Italian Dinner Party · Cuisine: Italian · Volume: Vol. II — Italian Dinner Party
Ingredients
- 1 lb bucatini
- 6 oz guanciale — cut into ½-inch cubes or thick lardons
- 1 (28-oz) can whole San Marzano tomatoes — crushed by hand
- 3 oz Pecorino Romano — finely grated, plus more for serving
- ¼ cup dry white wine
- ½ tsp red pepper flakes
- Black pepper — freshly cracked, generously
- Kosher salt — for pasta water (taste before adding; Pecorino is salty)
Method
- Render the guanciale low and slow. Place guanciale in a cold, wide skillet and set over medium-low heat. Let the fat render slowly for 8–10 minutes until the pieces are glassy, lightly golden, and the fat has pooled in the pan. Do not rush this. Remove the guanciale with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving all the fat in the pan.
- Bloom the chili and reduce the wine. Add red pepper flakes to the fat and stir for 30 seconds. Add white wine and let it reduce almost completely, about 2 minutes, scraping up any browned bits.
- Build the sauce. Add hand-crushed San Marzanos. Season lightly with salt — the guanciale and Pecorino are both salty. Simmer over medium heat for 15–20 minutes until the sauce thickens and the oil begins to separate slightly around the edges. That's the sign it's ready.
- Cook the bucatini very al dente. Cook bucatini in generously salted boiling water until very al dente — bucatini needs 2–3 minutes less than the box says. Reserve ½ cup pasta water before draining.
- Marry pasta and sauce. Add pasta to the sauce along with the reserved guanciale and a splash of pasta water. Toss vigorously over medium heat for 2 minutes until the pasta is coated and the sauce clings.
- Finish off heat with Pecorino. Off heat, add half the Pecorino and toss. Plate in warm bowls. Shower with remaining Pecorino and a generous crack of black pepper.
Cook with intention. Feel and taste your way through it. Keep one clog in the kitchen. Always.
— Brian W. Bonanno