Osso Buco alla Milanese with Gremolata Risotto

Osso buco is the dish that made Milan famous, and it's been softened and simplified by a thousand restaurants into something pleasant but forgettable. Done right, it's one of the most extraordinary things you can put on a table — veal shanks braised until the marrow in the bone is trembling and soft, the sauce rich and golden, finished at the last second with gremolata that cuts through all that richness like a knife.

The risotto is not a side dish — it's the other half of the plate, and the saffron is not decorative. It changes the flavor entirely. You'll run the braise and the risotto concurrently during the last 25 minutes, which requires a little attention. It's worth it.

Soundtrack from Vol. II: Casta Diva — Maria Callas.

Chapter: Italian Dinner Party  ·  Cuisine: Italian  ·  Volume: Vol. II — Italian Dinner Party

Ingredients

• For the osso buco:
• 6 pieces cross-cut veal shanks — each about 1.5 inches thick, 12–14 oz each
• ½ cup all-purpose flour — for dredging
• 2 tsp kosher salt
• 1 tsp black pepper — freshly ground
• 4 tbsp olive oil — divided
• 2 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 large yellow onion — finely diced
• 2 medium carrots — finely diced
• 2 stalks celery — finely diced
• 4 cloves garlic — minced
• 1½ cups dry white wine
• 2 cups chicken stock — warm
• 1 (14-oz) can San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes — crushed by hand
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• For the gremolata:
• 4 tbsp flat-leaf parsley — finely chopped
• Zest of 2 lemons — finely grated
• 2 cloves garlic — minced
• For the gremolata risotto alla Milanese:
• 2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
• ½ tsp saffron threads — bloomed in 2 tbsp warm water for 10 minutes
• ½ cup dry white wine
• 6 cups chicken stock — warm, kept at a simmer
• 1 small yellow onion — finely diced
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter — divided (2 for cooking, 2 for finishing)
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano — freshly grated
• Kosher salt — to taste

Method

1. Prep the shanks. Pat the veal shanks very dry. Season well with salt and pepper. Tie a piece of kitchen twine around the circumference of each shank — this keeps the meat from falling off the bone as it braises. Dredge lightly in flour, shaking off the excess.
2. Sear the shanks. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the butter in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the butter foams, sear the shanks in batches — don't crowd — for 3–4 minutes per side until deeply golden. Transfer to a plate.
3. Build the braise base. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil to the pot. Cook the onion, carrot, and celery over medium heat until soft and golden, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Pour in the white wine, scraping the bottom, and reduce by half.
4. Braise the shanks. Add the crushed tomatoes and warm stock to the pot. Nestle the shanks in upright — you want the marrow to stay in the bone as they cook, so keep them bone-side up. Add the thyme and bay leaves. The liquid should come about two-thirds up the sides of the shanks. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook over the lowest possible heat (or in a 325°F oven) for 1.5 to 2 hours, until the meat is tender enough to pull with a fork and the marrow is soft.
5. Check the braise. At the 1.5-hour mark, check the shanks. The meat should be giving way easily but still holding to the bone. The marrow in the center of the bone should look like a soft, creamy plug. If it's set and firm, give it another 30 minutes. Remove the thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Taste the braising liquid and adjust seasoning. If it's thin, reduce it briefly over medium heat.
6. Make the gremolata. Combine the parsley, lemon zest, and garlic in a small bowl. Mix well. This is a finishing condiment — don't add it to the braise until you're at the table.
7. Start the risotto. About 30 minutes before serving, begin the risotto. Heat 2 tbsp butter and the olive oil in a wide, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook the diced onion until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and toast for 2 minutes, stirring, until the grains look slightly translucent at the edges. Add the white wine and stir until absorbed.
8. Build the risotto ladle by ladle. Add the warm stock one ladle at a time, stirring continuously and waiting until each addition is nearly absorbed before adding the next. After about 12 minutes, add the bloomed saffron with its soaking liquid — the rice will turn a gorgeous gold. Continue adding stock and stirring for another 6–8 minutes until the rice is just tender with a slight bite (al dente). The risotto should be fluid and wave when you shake the pan — not stiff.
9. Mantecatura — finish the risotto. Remove from heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of cold butter and the Parmigiano. Stir vigorously — this is the mantecatura, the final emulsification that makes risotto creamy. Let it rest for 2 minutes. It should be loose, flowing, and deeply golden.
10. Serve together. Spoon the risotto into wide, shallow bowls or onto plates. Set a veal shank over each portion. Ladle the braising liquid around. Scatter a generous pinch of gremolata over each shank — it will perfume the whole plate. Serve immediately.

Cook with intention. Feel and taste your way through it. Keep one clog in the kitchen. Always.
— Brian W. Bonanno